Card files The Game Crafter accepts
The Game Crafter does not want a PDF. It wants one image per card, at 300 DPI, with an eighth of an inch of bleed on every side. Three numbers — and the third is the one that comes back as a box of cards with a white sliver down one edge.
What they ask for
- One file per card, PNG or JPG. Not a sheet, not a PDF.
- 300 DPI. The card's size in inches times 300 is its size in pixels.
- Bleed of ⅛ inch (3.175 mm) on every side, included in the image. Their cut line sits that far in from the file's edge.
So a poker card, 2.5 × 3.5 inches, is not 750 × 1050 pixels. With an eighth of an inch added on all four sides it is 2.75 × 3.75 inches — 825 × 1125 pixels. Upload the 750 × 1050 version and the press has nothing to trim into.
Why bleed is where projects die
A guillotine is not precise to the pixel. It wanders — by a fraction of a millimetre, card to card, across a stack. Bleed is the sacrificial margin that absorbs that wander: the art continues past where the cut is supposed to land, so wherever the blade actually comes down, it comes down on art.
There is a second margin, and nobody tells you about it until it is too late. The cut can wander inwards too, so anything that must not be trimmed — text, a border, an icon — needs its own safety gap inside the cut line. A border drawn exactly at the card edge is the single most common way a deck comes back looking wrong: on half the cards it will be thick on one side and gone on the other.
The rule that saves print runs: art to the bleed edge, text well inside the cut line. If a design only works when the cut is perfect, it does not work.
Doing it by hand
Whatever tool you use, the steps are the same:
- Set the canvas to the card size plus ⅛ inch on each side, at 300 DPI.
- Draw guides at the real cut line and at a safety margin inside it. Keep text inside the inner guide.
- Extend backgrounds and art all the way to the canvas edge — not to the cut line.
- Export one flattened PNG per card, at full resolution, with no compression surprises.
- Name the files so you can tell them apart in an upload list of two hundred.
Doable once. The trouble starts at card forty, when a value changes and every file has to be made again.
Doing it in Boardsmith
Boardsmith carries The Game Crafter's numbers as a preset. Picking it switches the export to per-card files, turns bleed on, sets 300 DPI and chooses PNG — the three numbers above, filled in from their own documentation rather than from memory. Your cards come out as a folder of files ready for the upload form.
The cards themselves come from your spreadsheet: one row each, fields bound to columns. Change a row and that card is remade; change the template and all of them are.
Pro The shop presets, output DPI written into the files and per-card JPG and TIFF are part of Boardsmith Pro. The editor itself, and print-and-play PDFs for a home printer, are free. See the line.
Before you spend money
- Read every export warning. They exist because someone already paid for that mistake.
- Print one page at home and cut it with scissors. Paper finds problems screens hide.
- Order a proof — a handful of cards — before a full run.
- Check the current spec on their own help pages. Shops change their numbers, and this page is not their documentation.
And if the deck is not ready for a print run yet, it should not be in one — paper and scissors first.
The editor is free, with no card limit and no account.
Download Boardsmith Printing and pre-press, in detail →Figures above are from The Game Crafter's own help pages, checked September 2026. Boardsmith is not affiliated with The Game Crafter.